It’s a fascinating phenomenon that while used car prices continue to plummet, there is strong demand for good pre-loved motorcycles. Bikes depreciate more slowly than cars for several reasons. The first is that the prices of new ones are much lower than cars – consider what you pay for a topline Ducati and then check out a Ferrari. Or compare the price of a new entry level motorcycle with a light car. The second reason is that typically a motorcycle covers only about 6000-7000 km per year compared with three times that distance for a car. The third reason is that the motorcycling population continues to expand rapidly, soaking up the supply of quality used models.
Rules of thumb for buying a used bike:
Rules of thumb for buying a used bike are similar to those when you choose a car. But one difference is that there is perhaps a stronger chance of finding a really good private buy. That’s partly because some people take up two-wheeling and then change their minds – perhaps in response to pressure from a spouse or a nasty scare. Some such machines will have covered no more than 2000 kilometres. If the seller has taken the decision to cease and desist, then he won’t be trading this beauty on another.
Buying privately:
Nevertheless, buying privately still has risks attached. Always confirm title by contacting the register of encumbered vehicles (or its equivalent, depending on which state you live in). It’s worth shelling out a few dollars to be sure you are not buying something hot or with finance owing on it. Regardless of the morals of the situation, if you buy a bike with money owing on it, the finance company will repossess ‘your’ new property.
Looking for damage:
It is true that many bikes get ‘dropped’, even if this is nothing more major than the bike overbalancing when stationary. While it is possible to repair the damage, canny inspection will usually give the game away. Look at the ends of the brake levers and the handlebar rubbers. Just because a bike has hit the road once in its life doesn’t mean you should walk away but you will want to learn as much as you can about how bad the fall was.
Look at the service history:
It is always sensible to pay a bit more money for a motorcycle with a thorough service history. Equally, I’d rather buy a pristine machine showing 30,000 km from one owner and with the books than a similarly priced unit with 10,000 km on the odo and no history beyond what you get told by the seller.
What style of bike will suit your needs?
Before you go shopping think hard about what style of bike will suit your needs. Do this by devouring specialist magazines and talking to people in motorcycle shops. Unless you have already held your licence for some time you will obviously have to start with a 250. The most sensible choice is one you sit up on rather than a crouch-down racer style, some of which only suit short riders anyway.
Torque:
In the real world torque counts for more than power unless you plan to go racing. Any 600 cc bike has a bit of torque. And a 1000 cc machine of relatively low power will have more torque again than a 600. Even low-powered cruisers have good torque, while the lack of a tachometer operates as a mission statement.
Weight:
Think about weight as well. A light bike will be sensitive to crosswinds. A heavy bike is more difficult to manage at low speeds, such as when you are parking or negotiating a roundabout. Sports bikes have a lower centre of gravity which is ideal most of the time but makes them feel extra heavy at walking speeds. I traded my GSX1400 on a Suzuki Hayabusa which weighed less but actually felt heavier.
